Monday, April 23, 2012

Transgression, a hangboard for high level climbers

Versión en español

After the arrival of  progression®; the board aimed at lower and medium level climbers, here comes TRANSGRESSION®, developed for those with a high level of finger strength, that already put to the test by climbers like:

Andrea Cartas Barrera (8c), Ander Lasagabaster (9a), Dafnis Fernández (9a), Dani Moreno (9a), Eric López (8B Fb, 9a), Iris Matamoros (9a), Jairo Pandiella (8b+ on sport routes; 8A on boulder), Jose Luis Palao "Primo" (9a), Luis Alfonso Félix Pérez (9a+), Luis Muñoz (8A+ Fb), Mikel Ziarrusta (9a), Nacho Sánchez (3x8C Fb), Ola Taistra (8c), Pablo Barbero (9a), Raquel Hernández (8c), part of the Belmez Face Brigade...

Thanks to them, to the "guinea pigs" who volunteered for the three investigations previous to my thesis, to my 10 years of work as a trainer and nearly one year of preliminary studies ergonomic tests, prototypes texture essays, etc. In collaboration with JM Climbing Surfaces and Dafnis, here is this board and the training I propose to go with it.

If you are curious about average finger strength/endurance increases after doing a row using the basic methodology  (4 weeks doing dead hang with added weight on 18mm; and then 4 weeks without extra weight on smallest edge possible), this is a  little summary  (López-Rivera, E. & González-Badillo, J.J., (2010); Unpublished raw data from study, untitled work):
  • Improvements in finger strength (maximum weight supported for 5 seconds on 15mm): 25,8% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 8,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)
  • Improvements in finger endurance (maximum time on 11mm): 40,9% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 10,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)
Transgression and its companion poster

¿How do I know if this fingerboard is the right one for me?
The requisites are the following:

- Having previous experience with dead hang training,
- Having climbed in a systematic way for more than two years,
- Being older than 18,
- Meeting or exceeding the following tests of maximum hanging time, using a half crimp type of grip and keeping your arms straight, from a 10 mm edge, and then from a 20 mm one,  resting for 5 minutes between them:

  • 10mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 15 seconds.
  • 20mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 40 seconds.

¿What are the differences with  progression®?

In the first place, the proposed methodology and planning that is included with each board, is customized to the needs of high level climbers with ample training experience.
As for the hardware, there are visual differences like colors and profile, but the most notable ones can be summarized like this:

- The depths of the edges, are 18, 14, 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, and 6 mm  against  24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12 and  10 mm of the other one

- The finish and sharpness of the smaller edges are a bit more radical for Transgression, so that the user can choose wether to keep them that way to make them easier to hold, or to blunt them (a tiny bit!) to reduce harm to the skin.

Our gym's Progression and Transgression
Finally I'd like to mention some coaches and researchers that I've had the pleasure of meeting in the last few months.
Thanks to their interest on trying these training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:

  • Andrew Pacey (Canada): Climber, Bachelor of Human Kinetics, Instructor climbers, and blogger. He has a weblog about training in climbing
  • Carlos Cabrera (Sweden): Coach of  Geir SöderinMatilda SöderlundDaniel Andersson, Robert Rundin  (Sweden National Climbing Team) and  Said Belhaj.
  • David Mason (Sheffield, UK): Boulderer (8B Fb) and Assistant British Team Coach.
  • Eric Hörst (USA): Climber, recognized performance coach, and author of eight books (climbing performance genre), and over 60 magazine articles. Eric is also editor of the NICROS Training Center.
  • Guido Köstermeyer (Germany): Researcher, Climber (8c+) and Climbing Coach. He has a webpage, and is the author of one of the few books published about training in climbing: Peak Performance.
  • Juan Martín Miranda, "Marvin" (Argentina): Personal Climbing Coach and Argentine Team Coach.
  • Kris "Odub" Hampton, (Cincinnati, USA): Owner/Trainer in Power Company Climbing. Review of the Transgression hangboard here.
  • Neal McQuaid (Dublin, Ireland): Rock climber and fan of climbing training. You can read your review of Transgression board here.
  • Mark Fraser (Canada): Climber, curious about performance improvement, and engineer. He is developing testing devices to help people assess their performance in climbing.
  • Mark McGowan (Glasgow, UK): Climber, currently working as Personal Climbing Coach at Barcelona, Spain.
  • Volker Schöffl (Germany), M.D., PhD. is a Fellow in General Surgery, Trauma surgery and orthopaedic surgery, Sports Medicine and Team Physician of the German Climbing and Expedition Team. Member of Medical Commissions (MedCom) for the UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation) and for IFSC (International Federation of Sports Climbing); Head of the Department of Sports Orthopaedics -Sports Medicine, specializing in
    shoulder and elbow surgery at Klinikum Bamberg and University Erlangen-Nuremberg, Germany. Volker has done many first ascents up to 8b and has been on many climbing expeditions. He is an acknowledged expert on climbing injuries with more than 50 scientific papers to his name. He also co-wrote the influential book translated in several languages ‘
    One Move too many: How to understand the injuries and overuse syndromes of rock climbing’
Thank everyone, It's a great honor to share experiences with you!

Spec Sheet

Have fun if you decide to purchase it!


Spain: JM Climbing Surfaces
Eastern Europe (only EU Countries):
Scandinavia: JM Climbing Scandinavia.
Rest of EU and UK: JM Climbing Deutschland
Latinoamérica: JM Climbing Surfaces Latinoamérica
USA and Canada: JM Climbing Surfaces USA (Holdz-on Rock Climbing Holds)

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  1. Hi Eva,
    I´m climbing many years with my bests of 8b, 8b+ and one 8c. It is the reason that I decided to bye transgression. When I get it, I tested myself on transgression fingerboard. My best on 10mm edge is 15 seconds, but on 18mm only 25 seconds. Result is somewhere between Progression and Transgression training. Do you have any reccomendations for me, how to start with Transgression?
    thank you

    1. Hi David,

      Ok, don't worry. Your maximum time on 10mm is right on the edge, but it's enough. You can start with phase 1 of your Transgression's poster.

      I think that you will improve your finger strength a lot. You will see...

      Anyway, I take advantage of this space to tell everyone that climbing grade is not the most accurate method for choosing between Transgression and Progression. As you have seen, there is some relationship between finger strength/endurance and maximum grade redpoint, but it's not the only one factor.

      Enjoy your training!
      Best regards

    2. Thank you, I will inform you after couple of months...


  2. I understand the loading principles you have described in this post, 18mm edge for 4 weeks with weight, then smallest edge possible. Is it possible for you to give an idea of the sets and length of reps necessary to follow the regimen done in the study?

    1. Hi Kerwin,

      Sure! 3-5 sets; 3' rest between will find that information here

      Enjoy it!
      Best regards